phoam's take:
Today was the last session on the '13ft of wood', and the remnants of the big south swell greeted us in the morning with a light offshore grooming some solid 4ft peelers.
A collection of classic boards lay across the beach, and the session turned into a morning of board swapping amongst the crew.
Still to come a post on Homers' session on the Olo this day.
surfscabs take:
Well i Shouldn't say so but I'm glad to see the Future primitive go.
We have had the pleasure of riding a beautifully crafted Surfboard but personally it is damn hard work and adrenalin inducing to ride on big days .
Paddling out meant finding a spot with a workable channel and a good long period swell so you could time your 'go out' well,
Even then a couple of times i had to paddle so hard i felt i was going to pop a heart valve.
Catching waves apart from turning it around was hell fun and adrenalising and she felt stable as a table on the wave!
Fast ?
dunno don't care surfing's about more than size and speed and i cant be bothered entering the debate.
One in my Quiver?
Well I'm building one of Roys boards next summer though it will be shorter and more intended for all round surfing!
The Pipeline Claim?
I've never surfed pipe not sure i could so who am i to comment!
But i'd sure love to see it dropping in at pipe.
Thank you very much Roy !
you've got a good heart to let us all test pilot such a lovely board and i hope someone gets shacked on it!
Surfscab
Last session photos:
Below- the Spot
Paddling out ...
Above scab punching through & another easy wave
Above scabs last wave.
Hayley's Take:
I had heaps of fun on the big log, It's very hard to turn It just wants to
go straight but guess thats what It's made to do hold it's line in big
pitting waves.
I only took it out in 1ft white water reforms so can't comment
to much on it, but one other thing was it paddles real fast.
Caitlin caught a few last waves as well as me. And Mike with the wood.
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