Jabes' experience

Well after a hectic few weeks decided to take the olo out for a blat before handing over to hunty, went for a surf earlier in the day and it was small and soft but peeling for ages so decided would be perfect conditions to take the board out in the evening glass off, left my shortboard at home so as not to be tempted to ride it instead, as i came out of the car park i regretted it when i met a few of the other locals coming back the other way, to hear them calling that the left was getting really sucky and starting to peel like rags eek!

Tho soon this was forgotten as my arm was preparing to fall off from the weight of the board tried it on my head shoulders both arms and still the 2.5km walk seemed to take for ever and my arms were competely dead not looking forward to paddling it out tho from the top of the hill the conditions looked to be ok for the left.


jumped on the board and talked my mate into taking a couple of pics before she hoped in the water, played with paddling the board forwards backwards to save turning it round and also swimming towing the board behind me,

was quite hard to be in the right spot at the right time as the waves come out of deep water barely showing and then hit the shelf and you have to be able to turn and go in seconds,

still took a few waves and a few absolute beatings before i figured out the sweet spot to stand and also the shortboarders curse of being used to boards that respond the moment you put any pressure on the rails had me struggling a bit,

tho once i stoped trying to tell the board what to do i let her run her own way and got a nice long one into the middle of the bay.


my take on the board it went alright i wouldnt choose to ride it over a shortboard in sucky conditions it got into waves early but i just like the drop. handled pretty much the same as a normal mal would ride, So yeah cool to ride it but just not my thing maybe when im too old for a shortboard but yeah definately not my choice of vessel.

ps the walk back was hell too

two weeks of limbo

jabes has had the board for 19 days now, I don't believe he has surfed it yet apart from a paddle to do some fishing, his flatmate gave it a spin at some stage, but there are no words for the blog from him. The good news is that hunty will be taking over the board on the 3rd January ~ phoam

to fill the gaps and lack of content here is a catchup of messages from the surf.co message board:

Jabes posted 13 December 2007 22:38
"Yip got her safely at work so if anyone wants to come have a peruse then its at free ride in henderson and ill bring it in thru the day for people to check out it looks amazing and i cant wait to try it bit of a pain bout the tides for after work but i will ride it soon as i can yay."

Jabes posted 16 December 2007 20:47
"nah had to work all day till late its coming out with me tomo and will take the photos and do a bit of a write up a mate and i are going to crank out a tandem for a bit to"

RoyStewart posted 16 December 2007 21:51
"Jabes there's zero chance of going tandem, don't be fooled by the length the board is actually a bit of a blade and is nowhere near buoyant enough for two people, hope you have a good surf."

Father Ted posted 17 December 2007 10:26
"Go the tandem Jabes, cant wait to see if you can pull it off. I was going to try it with my wee boy but he was a bit too wary of it. (I suspicious that you may be using it as an excuse to get UC&P with someone though... cause I don't reckon the board will like it and I think you probably know it too - that tail is pretty tight.) So in the spirit of good old fashioned southern tradition -'Good on ya mate' "

RoyStewart posted 22 December 2007 20:12
"Piha has been cranking ?"


Jabes posted 22 December 2007 22:51
"west been darn near flat lately"

RoyStewart posted 23 December 2007 01:41
"West has been cranking the last few days according to the cams and reports, looked primo today and East not too shabby either , I know that you are busy, but . . .. . the chicken hath arrived !" hunty posted 24 December 2007 11:32
"I'm going to be coming through auckland on the 4th of january guys and id like to pick the board up, do you still have it jabes?i'll pm who ever has it to exchange numbers and get in touch with them on the day.Maybe we can arrange a time for me to pick it up,but i fear the traffic will be a nightmare and make that difficult."

Adam J posted 24 December 2007 11:44
"Yeah come on Jabes, it's been a tad quiet from you since you had the board. Don't tell me one of your flatties thought it was firewood by mistake and you are trying to furiously whittle a copy from the neighbours tree before you get rumbled"

Jabes posted 25 December 2007 00:01
"yeah been too work a holic done nearly 60 hours over the last 4 days took it out tonight tho was darn near flat paddles so well tryed a tandem but not quite wide enough slow to turn and catch you need to be prepared as ted said! prob the best part of tonight was we took it thru the cave system and there was a ton of phosphorescence in there so cool paddling in pitch black with the glow from your hands and the boards wake also used it to pillage a few fish tho sadly no crays for xmas for me"
posted 25 December 2007 09:28
"nah just as the sun went down but we have a bit of a cave network and its pitch black in them once you get in there aye impressed with how it feels in the water once your riding it then its alot smaller than you would think also discovered if you get it going real fast doing the knee paddle you can stand up on it just cruising along without waves"

Beano posted 25 December 2007 12:39
"You've had it two weeks and just now taken it out for a paddle Jabes? I recon it's time to start taking it out or pass her on."

RoyStewart posted 01 January 2008 08:09
"Jabes exactly where has our board been over the last few weeks ? Just wondering."

Jabes posted 01 January 2008 09:20
"done a couple of trips to the beach sadly ive only had the time to take it out once but my flat mate took it out and totally loved it aye its had a nice polish up and its been living at my house meeting hunty i think on the 3rd either at work or here to pass on the torch so to speak"

surfscab posted 01 January 2008 12:30
"Found this on the 'NZ police' website today.

PRESS RELEASE
January 1 2008

After an extensive internal enquiry into police handling of the recent
'Tuhoe protest Hikoi' we have decided in event of future protest hikoi's to employ help from the private sector in order to distance ourselves from criticism by members of the public.

Extensive Google'ing has directed us towards an individual known only as 'jabes' who has managed to successfully stop a
'13 foot of fury hikoi'
We have been impressed in following how quickly and quietly this wannabe surfer has ended what could have been a dangerous hikoi , as neither Tama Iti or Brian Tamiki are 13ft
and with 'Jabes' being a anonymous character and beyond the press's reach we believe he is the best "Man" for the job."

So does this board handle solid waves

words and first 2 pics by Father Ted
other photos by AdamJ from last week

Piha on Aucklands West Coast,

the report called it “Pumping this morning with a brand new swell, stacked west/southwest lines 2-4ft with a few plus sets, fun size and clean with a stiff offshore on it. Few barrels caught on PROCAMS. Look for Northeast winds through the day. Stoke Meter 8 /10.”

I arrived at the beach a little later than intended because of some work commitments this morning but it was clear and sunny with a nice (not too strong) offshore and did the usual North vs South Piha juggle to decide where the best place was going to be to try the big beast out in some gruntier waves. Deciding North would be more challenging I grabbed my camera and banged off a couple of hurried shots to give people something to look at before paddling out. The shots are not particularly wonderful and I apologise for there being no action shots but they give an indication of the size and shape of some of the sets.

Once again it took about an hour to get in the water because I found myself talking to lots of the guys in the carpark and on the way down to the water’s edge about the board, it’s construction and the story behind the journey. One of the more telling comments was from a guy whom I see in the water a bit and I know he’s a competent surfer who says ‘that would be more suited to a smaller day wouldn’t it’, yea thanks buddy... just what I was needing to hear. The other comment from an older guy who looked me in the eye and said ‘you’re going to get smashed out there’ didn’t help much either. Funnily enough I overheard his son/younger friend ask him if it was too big for him and his comment was ‘NO! Its just not lined up properly’ (not lined up properly my ass) I mentioned a vague sense of nervousness in my first story about riding this board, well today it was back except it wasn’t vague at all – it was actually quite tangible.

There was one really nice looking bank just down from the rivermouth with a nice right hander and a faster breaking and more solid left hander. There were about 15 guys sitting on the peak and picking off the right’s so I was a bit wary about sitting in amongst them in case I crushed one of them with an errant wipeout and being a goofyfooter anyway I opted for the lefts which would keep me away from the other guys but would also mean that I’d have to be a bit more selective with which waves I want for as there were a few closeouts coming through.

Remembering Roy’s tip about cooling the board in the shorebreak before tightening the vent I sucked a deep breath and paddled out. It wasn’t too difficult, there’s quite a helpful little rip by the river and before too long I was out the back, a long way out the back. I guess most beachbreaks that get solid swell are the same but for the sake of those who have never had the pleasure, Piha is one of those places that has a spot that breaks fairly consistenly and that’s generally where you, and everybody else wants to sit. Out about 20-50 meters is where the big sets break and thats where the guys who like big waves sit, it’s also where the guys who ride really long boards sit because they don’t want to get those bigger sets on the head. It’s a good place to be- Its safe. It also limits your wave catching options to the bigger outside sets. This is where I found myself sitting. Oh and I’ve discovered why Roy wears a helmet. When you roll the board under a larger breaking wave the rocker curve of the board flows with the wave and when it rolls through the tail, it shoots the nose of the board downwards and onto the head of the surfer clinging on the underside you get wary of it after a couple of thumps so you learn to avoid it. I wasn’t wanting to let the board go at all so there was none of this ‘arms full length using your body as a sea anchor’ stuff for me, someone else can try that.

So I find myself sitting out the back and I’m watching these quite nice inside waves breaking and there has been a bit of a lull so I’m thinking I should probably paddle back in a bit and pick one or two off, I’m about to do so when I glance back out to sea to see the eminent shadow of an approaching ‘plus set’ I almost throw my hip out of joint in my urgency to spin the olo around again so I can scurry over the lip of the first wave just in time before it breaks right on top of me, 3 more waves pass by and I decide that I definitely not going to go in a bit and pick of the nice inside waves. I haven’t got a death wish.

There was a pretty good gap between the larger sets so I had plenty of time to get myself into what I thought was a good takeoff spot and to do some of that other stuff that you sometimes find yourself doing when you’re by yourself and feeling unsure as to whether it was such a good idea or not, like praying that the experience doesn’t kill you. Its kinda funny because usually I’d have been frothing on the waves because I’d be happily riding a shortboard and thinking twice about the sets, even riding my 9 footer would have felt quite comfortable but the uncertainty of what was too come had me as nervous as hell.

A set was coming, what should I do? Paddle for the horizon again or pick up my balls and go for it.... paddle for the horizon was looking like a good option but I wouldn’t have been able to live it down if I didn’t go so I paddled like I meant it and as smooth as silk I was up and riding. The board slipped into the wave really nicely and there was no question of it nosediving, It felt like I was flying but I’ve got no idea if I was or not. The board was vibrating slightly under my feet as I raced around the first section and onto the open face where I was able to hold my line for a short time before the wave closed out in front of me before reforming and giving me quite a playful little face to ride in to the shore. I was laughing, more with relief than anything else... I was alive... I had so much adrenalin pumping through my body that I was shaking and I was stoked. I sat there on the inside for almost five minutes chuckling away to myself with a stupid grin on my face before turning the nose back to sea and paddling out for some more.

Once you’ve done it once it’s not so intense and it’s easier to get a few under your belt so some time passes, a couple of waves are caught and I’m feeling more comfortable and starting to think I’d better head in and get on with the rest of my working day and I’m thinking I should paddle a bit deeper and pick off one of the Bombs when it comes through, so I did. Now I’m not one to call the size of a wave by the size of the drop and it was probably only a 5’ wave but as I was dropping down the face I swear I wasn’t at the bottom of the wave and this 13 foot long olo board was stretched out full length on the face with plenty of room to spare at either end. I know this because the board did a strange thing- as I was paddling for the wave I wasn’t quite straight and I took the wave at just enough of an angle that it meant that the inside rail was quite keen to start the turning process as I was ½ way down the face. There was nothing I could do, the board turned itself giving me a grandstand view of the wave I’d taken off on and then proceeded to lock itself into position for the barrel. The board did it- I was just along for the ride, there’s something about the curve of the rocker and the rail and the fin and the tail and whatever else contributed to it but the board sliced into that face like a carving knife in a Christmas turkey. I’d had my doubts about it as a barrel riding board and had begun to think that it might be more suited to a wave like Waimea or Makaha Point (it was originally shaped for Hawaii after all) than Pipeline but now I’ve got to wonder whether in the right hands it just might tuck itself quite nicely in there as well. I’m really looking forward to that part of the journey.

I’d love to say that I tucked in and rode the barrel like a demon but the truth is quite different. I got to the bottom of the wave quite happily and had just enough time to wonder what I should do next, the wave was throwing out above me and I knew that picking a high line wouldn’t take me where I needed to be so I tried to pick a line that might get me around the section that was rapidly starting to look like a close out, unfortunately it was not to be and I found myself swallowed up by the lip and ragdolled.

I’ve had bad wipeouts before and this was up there, its hard to describe a wipeout I guess but I was quite conscious that I didn’t know where the board was so I was trying to swim deep to give myself time to make sure I didn’t get speared by the tail. I was in the full wash cycle and it managed to both pull my boardshorts ½ off so that I was dangling free in the water and to rip my vest off over my head so that I was tangled up and far from free at the other end. My vest is usually quite difficult to take off so I can only imagine that at some point I was being dragged backwards at 1000 mile an hour and that it filled up with water like a balloon before turning itself inside out over my head. I managed to free one arm from the vest and get my head clear just in time to reach the surface and grab a breath of air. My shorts could wait, it actually felt kind nice. The board was lying upside down in the water a few meters away and with my vest in my teeth I swam over and grabbed it by the tail wrapping my arms around in front of the fin as the second wave washed over me. Thankfully 3 waves was all I had to take and I was able to pull my pants back on, climb on top of the board and sit, laughing (mostly with relief) for the second time in a day.

I paddled in after that.

On my way home I stopped briefly at ‘freeride’ in Henderson and reluctantly dropped the board off to Jabes who is pretty keen to get it in the water and give it a good go. I hope he has as much fun with it as I’ve had and I can’t wait to see his shots and hear his stories. I’d be quite keen to hook up with him if he gets a chance to take it out in solid stuff again while he’s got it (just remember Jabes, close the vent before entering the water and open it when you exit the water). The torch has been passed again.

Thanks Roy for being a good sport, thanks for lending me your creation and letting me take it out for a spin. I’ve had a great time with it, I’m stoked to have been a part of the journey. This board rides and turns differently from any other board I’ve owned so you have to surf differently when you’re on it- its kinda like grass roots surfing, just waveriding like they used to do in the early days and it won’t appeal to everybody but I think there’s a pretty good chance that you’re onto something with your design, I’m sure the others who get to share in this Hikoi will come away feeling like they’ve been part of something special as well.

What’s that word the Hawaiian’s use.... Aloha’

Tawharanui Marine Park

Tawharanui Beach
Today the Hikoi moves to the east coast just north of Auckland at the Tawharanui Marine Park. It’s another early start (Father Ted seems to be a morning person!) and I arrive at the car park wondering how I will recognise him. Then I remembered, just look for a car that looks like it has a hang glider on the roof racks! Sure enough there was a Jeep Cherokee dwarfed by this huge red board bag and Jeeps are not small vehicles either. Well Father Ted and his friend Aaron were already checking the waves which were small but fun. The place was fairly quiet with a few surfers already in Anchor Bay and a hand full of cars in the car park. It was actually quite a fine morning with blue skies and a few clouds peppered across the horizon.

Once the board bag was opened and the board slid out I really got to appreciate just how big this was. Nearly twice the size in fact of the largest board I have surfed. I have to say it is truly beautiful. Not something you often say about boards made the standard way. Every inch of this just showed how much love and craftsmanship was put into its creation. The fin alone, which would befit a small boat had been hand crafted in the same wood grain
as the rest of the board.


Already some of the surfers that were starting to arrive were asking questions and admiring both its stature and look. Most were surprised just how light it was for a board that size. It was about this point that a smile grew on my face as I realised “I am actually going to surf this!”
Father Ted started to wax the board, the way he waxed it was almost with reverence and love, I had my suspicions that he really likes this board. He was using some of Roy’s organic wax which he had also donated. It is actually rather good and stickier than the commercial waxes I use. I am a convert so I will be ordering this off Roy in future! I got the camera and housing out the car and got ready to set off to the beach. What would have been a normally quick walk to the beach turned into something more like being celebrities as various people we passed stopped us to ask more questions. We got to the waters edge and checked how the surf was. Lully and small, but quite clean. The odd shoulder high wave but mostly waist high. Perfect I thought as I didn’t really want to have to push myself too hard with a board like this as I had no idea if I could turn it or control a thing this size, also because my back was still as stiff as the board I was going to ride from an injury a couple of weeks before.

Its at this point I apologise to my physio for any damage I do after being told not to load my back for the next 3-6 weeks! Mind you he probably would understand as he was a surfer and took some interest in the hikoi when I told him earlier in the week.

One final Q&A session (We should make flyers with technical info to save time and to save Father Ted from trying to pronounce the name of the wood used in it’s construction!) from an elderly man who obviously saw the board and brought back memories of his youth and we set off to catch some waves.

I am sure there is an outboard motor fitted to that board as it paddles fast! It took a little longer for me to swim out to the line up with my camera in tow! After a few minutes the first set arrived so with camera ready Father Ted took of with ease, gliding down the line. It’s actually a bit nerve racking positioning myself for the shots and seeing the nose of the board poking over the lip because from the lower vantage point I had it looked even longer than on land. Still I had faith that it was under good control from its rider.

Some of the groms in the line up that had earlier been asking about the board, told us that they had been following the exploits on www.surf.co.nz, and seemed stoked to have met the Legendary Father Ted and Crystal Voyager (now re-branded AdamJ!) and were now part of a piece of New Zealand history.
Well it wasn’t long before it was my turn as Father Ted handed me the leash which I exchanged for my camera. After a quick crash course in operating it I started to paddle the board out a bit to get a feel for her. It really is quite easy to paddle but real hard to turn around for a wave as I found out when the first of the set waves arrived.
“Hmmm OK” I thought
“I am going to have to plan ahead with this board!”
So I gradually got her to face the beach and waited for the next wave. It is strange to see so much wood in front of your (oh er missus!) as it looks more like a pier or jetty in front of you! It reminded me of surfing Brighton Pier! Well the next wave was upon me and I paddled for it, got up and promptly fell straight off again. Father Ted made it look easy but it was then that anything I had previously learnt did not apply to this board. As Kat said, it feels alive. Even sitting astride it felt different to standard boards, warmer and altogether very organic in nature which is quite comforting.

So I paddled for a few more waves somewhat apprehensive, not only because I did not want to damage her but also anyone around as I was sure steering it would be a problem for me. Finally I got a wave and it just glided through the water with subtle flexing over the ripples. Quite a different feeling to my 7’6” that I normally use, also what was quite different was making a turn. It just didn’t for me, not through the board design but my lack of skill, so there I was on a 13 foot board which was feeling like it was running on rails straight to the beach, “bugger!”

Not one to give up, I paddled back out (this board must have a motor, I have never paddled so fast!) and slowly turned the board around for the next wave. The above cycle repeated itself a number of times with one where I tried a late take off (not a bright idea!) which saw me go over the falls with the board flying up in the air. A good few feet according to Father Ted (Oh why did you not get a photo of that). It must have been quite something to see 13 foot of wood go airborne (Sorry Roy).

“Just one more wave” I said a number of times then finally got myself a small right hander and made the turn and was running the face. Stoked, with a big grin I finally got it to turn. I am not quite sure how, almost as if it did it by itself in pure frustration at me straight handing the earlier waves! I can only describe this board like an analogy to cars. It reminded me of a Rolls Royce, quiet, smooth, big, understated power and just the feel of it alone exudes quality.

By this time the waves were getting peaky, the sky looking increasingly stormy and the bay was filling up with a few more surfers and my back was starting to give out a bit so I figured it was time to let Aaron have his turn. At least the kids in the shore break were now safe from me hurtling towards them on a wooden missile! I took a few more water shots and headed back to the car to get my other camera.
On my return there is Aaron whizzing along a nice little wave, just barely having time to turn the camera on and get a few frames.

There was no doubt he loved it from the expression on his face.
He quickly turned the board around and paddled out back cutting through the waves, the nose protruding through the back of the wave reminiscent of a whale.
He also did something that Roy said the board wasn’t designed to do and that was walking the nose. I guess it just goes to show that anything is possible. We did joke if the next big swell out west would be a good idea to try tow in surfing with it! You never know it might be more versatile than the designer had realised.



It wasn’t too long before Father Ted took the helm once more while Aaron showed his skills on his short board. Again he showed how at ease he is with the board taking on a few more waves. Before long it was gone midday and it was time for us to leave.

One last thing to do was to add our messages to the board bag before putting it back on the car. It was a great experience and I am now even more respectful of Roy and his creations and for his generosity at letting us try his board and in such a great way. I hope I get another chance to ride it and do a better job next time and get some more photos of will become a legend in surfing in New Zealand.

Until then enjoy the rest of the photos and the Hikoi blog as more stories unfold on its journey around the country.

Tawharanui Marine Park

Today the Hikoi moves to the east coast just north of Auckland at the Tawharanui Marine Park. It’s another early start (Father Ted seems to be a morning person!) and I arrive at the car park wondering how I will recognise him. Then I remembered, just look for a car that looks like it has a hang glider on the roof racks! Sure enough there was a Jeep Cherokee dwarfed by this huge red board bag and Jeeps are not small vehicles either. Well Father Ted and his friend Aaron were already checking the waves which were small but fun. The place was fairly quiet with a few surfers already in Anchor Bay and a hand full of cars in the car park. It was actually quite a fine morning with blue skies and a few clouds peppered across the horizon.

Once the board bag was opened and the board slid out I really got to appreciate just how big this was. Nearly twice the size in fact of the largest board I have surfed. I have to say it is truly beautiful. Not something you often say about boards made the standard way. Every inch of this just showed how much love and craftsmanship was put into its creation. The fin alone, which would befit a small boat had been hand crafted in the same wood grain
as the rest of the board.


Already some of the surfers that were starting to arrive were asking questions and admiring both its stature and look. Most were surprised just how light it was for a board that size. It was about this point that a smile grew on my face as I realised “I am actually going to surf this!”

Father Ted started to wax the board, the way he waxed it was almost with reverence and love, I had my suspicions that he really likes this board. He was using some of Roy’s organic wax which he had also donated. It is actually rather good and stickier than the commercial waxes I use. I am a convert so I will be ordering this off Roy in future! I got the camera and housing out the car and got ready to set off to the beach. What would have been a normally quick walk to the beach turned into something more like being celebrities as various people we passed stopped us to ask more questions. We got to the waters edge and checked how the surf was. Lully and small, but quite clean. The odd shoulder high wave but mostly waist high. Perfect I thought as I didn’t really want to have to push myself too hard with a board like this as I had no idea if I could turn it or control a thing this size, also because my back was still as stiff as the board I was going to ride from an injury a couple of weeks before.

Its at this point I apologise to my physio for any damage I do after being told not to load my back for the next 3-6 weeks! Mind you he probably would understand as he was a surfer and took some interest in the hikoi when I told him earlier in the week.

One final Q&A session (We should make flyers with technical info to save time and to save Father Ted from trying to pronounce the name of the wood used in it’s construction!) from an elderly man who obviously saw the board and brought back memories of his youth and we set off to catch some waves. I am sure there is an outboard motor fitted to that board as it paddles fast! It took a little longer for me to swim out to the line up with my camera in tow! After a few minutes the first set arrived so with camera ready Father Ted took of with ease, gliding down the line. It’s actually a bit nerve racking positioning myself for the shots and seeing the nose of the board poking over the lip because from the lower vantage point I had it looked even longer than on land. Still I had faith that it was under good control from its rider.

Some of the groms in the line up that had earlier been asking about the board, told us that they had been following the exploits on www.surf.co and seemed stoked to have met the Legendary Father Ted and Crystal Voyager (now re-branded AdamJ!) and were now part of a piece of New Zealand history.

Well it wasn’t long before it was my turn as Father Ted handed me the leash which I exchanged for my camera. After a quick crash course in operating it I started to paddle the board out a bit to get a feel for her. It really is quite easy to paddle but real hard to turn around for a wave as I found out when the first of the set waves arrived.
“Hmmm OK” I thought
“I am going to have to plan ahead with this board!”
So I gradually got her to face the beach and waited for the next wave. It is strange to see so much wood in front of your (oh er missus!) as it looks more like a pier or jetty in front of you! It reminded me of surfing Brighton Pier! Well the next wave was upon me and I paddled for it, got up and promptly fell straight off again. Father Ted made it look easy but it was then that anything I had previously learnt did not apply to this board. As Kat said, it feels alive. Even sitting astride it felt different to standard boards, warmer and altogether very organic in nature which is quite comforting.

So I paddled for a few more waves somewhat apprehensive, not only because I did not want to damage her but also anyone around as I was sure steering it would be a problem for me. Finally I got a wave and it just glided through the water with subtle flexing over the ripples. Quite a different feeling to my 7’6” that I normally use, also what was quite different was making a turn. It just didn’t for me, not through the board design but my lack of skill, so there I was on a 13 foot board which was feeling like it was running on rails straight to the beach, “bugger!”

Not one to give up, I paddled back out (this board must have a motor, I have never paddled so fast!) and slowly turned the board around for the next wave. The above cycle repeated itself a number of times with one where I tried a late take off (not a bright idea!) which saw me go over the falls with the board flying up in the air. A good few feet according to Father Ted (Oh why did you not get a photo of that). It must have been quite something to see 13 foot of wood go airborne (Sorry Roy).

“Just one more wave” I said a number of times then finally got myself a small right hander and made the turn and was running the face. Stoked, with a big grin I finally got it to turn. I am not quite sure how, almost as if it did it by itself in pure frustration at me straight handing the earlier waves! I can only describe this board like an analogy to cars. It reminded me of a Rolls Royce, quiet, smooth, big, understated power and just the feel of it alone exudes quality.

By this time the waves were getting peaky, the sky looking increasingly stormy and the bay was filling up with a few more surfers and my back was starting to give out a bit so I figured it was time to let Aaron have his turn. At least the kids in the shore break were now safe from me hurtling towards them on a wooden missile! I took a few more water shots and headed back to the car to get my other camera. On my return there is Aaron whizzing along a nice little wave, just barely having time to turn the camera on and get a few frames. There was no doubt he loved it from the expression on his face.

He quickly turned the board around and paddled out back cutting through the waves, the nose protruding through the back of the wave reminiscent of a whale. He also did something that Roy said the board wasn’t designed to do and that was walking the nose. I guess it just goes to show that anything is possible. We did joke if the next big swell out west would be a good idea to try tow in surfing with it! You never know it might be more versatile than the designer had realised.











It wasn’t too long before Father Ted took the helm once more while Aaron showed his skills on his short board. Again he showed how at ease he is with the board taking on a few more waves. Before long it was gone midday and it was time for us to leave.

One last thing to do was to add our messages to the board bag before putting it back on the car. It was a great experience and I am now even more respectful of Roy and his creations and for his generosity at letting us try his board and in such a great way. I hope I get another chance to ride it and do a better job next time and get some more photos of will become a legend in surfing in New Zealand.

Until then enjoy the rest of the photos and the Hikoi blog as more stories unfold on its journey around the country.

- Adam J