So does this board handle solid waves

words and first 2 pics by Father Ted
other photos by AdamJ from last week

Piha on Aucklands West Coast,

the report called it “Pumping this morning with a brand new swell, stacked west/southwest lines 2-4ft with a few plus sets, fun size and clean with a stiff offshore on it. Few barrels caught on PROCAMS. Look for Northeast winds through the day. Stoke Meter 8 /10.”

I arrived at the beach a little later than intended because of some work commitments this morning but it was clear and sunny with a nice (not too strong) offshore and did the usual North vs South Piha juggle to decide where the best place was going to be to try the big beast out in some gruntier waves. Deciding North would be more challenging I grabbed my camera and banged off a couple of hurried shots to give people something to look at before paddling out. The shots are not particularly wonderful and I apologise for there being no action shots but they give an indication of the size and shape of some of the sets.

Once again it took about an hour to get in the water because I found myself talking to lots of the guys in the carpark and on the way down to the water’s edge about the board, it’s construction and the story behind the journey. One of the more telling comments was from a guy whom I see in the water a bit and I know he’s a competent surfer who says ‘that would be more suited to a smaller day wouldn’t it’, yea thanks buddy... just what I was needing to hear. The other comment from an older guy who looked me in the eye and said ‘you’re going to get smashed out there’ didn’t help much either. Funnily enough I overheard his son/younger friend ask him if it was too big for him and his comment was ‘NO! Its just not lined up properly’ (not lined up properly my ass) I mentioned a vague sense of nervousness in my first story about riding this board, well today it was back except it wasn’t vague at all – it was actually quite tangible.

There was one really nice looking bank just down from the rivermouth with a nice right hander and a faster breaking and more solid left hander. There were about 15 guys sitting on the peak and picking off the right’s so I was a bit wary about sitting in amongst them in case I crushed one of them with an errant wipeout and being a goofyfooter anyway I opted for the lefts which would keep me away from the other guys but would also mean that I’d have to be a bit more selective with which waves I want for as there were a few closeouts coming through.

Remembering Roy’s tip about cooling the board in the shorebreak before tightening the vent I sucked a deep breath and paddled out. It wasn’t too difficult, there’s quite a helpful little rip by the river and before too long I was out the back, a long way out the back. I guess most beachbreaks that get solid swell are the same but for the sake of those who have never had the pleasure, Piha is one of those places that has a spot that breaks fairly consistenly and that’s generally where you, and everybody else wants to sit. Out about 20-50 meters is where the big sets break and thats where the guys who like big waves sit, it’s also where the guys who ride really long boards sit because they don’t want to get those bigger sets on the head. It’s a good place to be- Its safe. It also limits your wave catching options to the bigger outside sets. This is where I found myself sitting. Oh and I’ve discovered why Roy wears a helmet. When you roll the board under a larger breaking wave the rocker curve of the board flows with the wave and when it rolls through the tail, it shoots the nose of the board downwards and onto the head of the surfer clinging on the underside you get wary of it after a couple of thumps so you learn to avoid it. I wasn’t wanting to let the board go at all so there was none of this ‘arms full length using your body as a sea anchor’ stuff for me, someone else can try that.

So I find myself sitting out the back and I’m watching these quite nice inside waves breaking and there has been a bit of a lull so I’m thinking I should probably paddle back in a bit and pick one or two off, I’m about to do so when I glance back out to sea to see the eminent shadow of an approaching ‘plus set’ I almost throw my hip out of joint in my urgency to spin the olo around again so I can scurry over the lip of the first wave just in time before it breaks right on top of me, 3 more waves pass by and I decide that I definitely not going to go in a bit and pick of the nice inside waves. I haven’t got a death wish.

There was a pretty good gap between the larger sets so I had plenty of time to get myself into what I thought was a good takeoff spot and to do some of that other stuff that you sometimes find yourself doing when you’re by yourself and feeling unsure as to whether it was such a good idea or not, like praying that the experience doesn’t kill you. Its kinda funny because usually I’d have been frothing on the waves because I’d be happily riding a shortboard and thinking twice about the sets, even riding my 9 footer would have felt quite comfortable but the uncertainty of what was too come had me as nervous as hell.

A set was coming, what should I do? Paddle for the horizon again or pick up my balls and go for it.... paddle for the horizon was looking like a good option but I wouldn’t have been able to live it down if I didn’t go so I paddled like I meant it and as smooth as silk I was up and riding. The board slipped into the wave really nicely and there was no question of it nosediving, It felt like I was flying but I’ve got no idea if I was or not. The board was vibrating slightly under my feet as I raced around the first section and onto the open face where I was able to hold my line for a short time before the wave closed out in front of me before reforming and giving me quite a playful little face to ride in to the shore. I was laughing, more with relief than anything else... I was alive... I had so much adrenalin pumping through my body that I was shaking and I was stoked. I sat there on the inside for almost five minutes chuckling away to myself with a stupid grin on my face before turning the nose back to sea and paddling out for some more.

Once you’ve done it once it’s not so intense and it’s easier to get a few under your belt so some time passes, a couple of waves are caught and I’m feeling more comfortable and starting to think I’d better head in and get on with the rest of my working day and I’m thinking I should paddle a bit deeper and pick off one of the Bombs when it comes through, so I did. Now I’m not one to call the size of a wave by the size of the drop and it was probably only a 5’ wave but as I was dropping down the face I swear I wasn’t at the bottom of the wave and this 13 foot long olo board was stretched out full length on the face with plenty of room to spare at either end. I know this because the board did a strange thing- as I was paddling for the wave I wasn’t quite straight and I took the wave at just enough of an angle that it meant that the inside rail was quite keen to start the turning process as I was ½ way down the face. There was nothing I could do, the board turned itself giving me a grandstand view of the wave I’d taken off on and then proceeded to lock itself into position for the barrel. The board did it- I was just along for the ride, there’s something about the curve of the rocker and the rail and the fin and the tail and whatever else contributed to it but the board sliced into that face like a carving knife in a Christmas turkey. I’d had my doubts about it as a barrel riding board and had begun to think that it might be more suited to a wave like Waimea or Makaha Point (it was originally shaped for Hawaii after all) than Pipeline but now I’ve got to wonder whether in the right hands it just might tuck itself quite nicely in there as well. I’m really looking forward to that part of the journey.

I’d love to say that I tucked in and rode the barrel like a demon but the truth is quite different. I got to the bottom of the wave quite happily and had just enough time to wonder what I should do next, the wave was throwing out above me and I knew that picking a high line wouldn’t take me where I needed to be so I tried to pick a line that might get me around the section that was rapidly starting to look like a close out, unfortunately it was not to be and I found myself swallowed up by the lip and ragdolled.

I’ve had bad wipeouts before and this was up there, its hard to describe a wipeout I guess but I was quite conscious that I didn’t know where the board was so I was trying to swim deep to give myself time to make sure I didn’t get speared by the tail. I was in the full wash cycle and it managed to both pull my boardshorts ½ off so that I was dangling free in the water and to rip my vest off over my head so that I was tangled up and far from free at the other end. My vest is usually quite difficult to take off so I can only imagine that at some point I was being dragged backwards at 1000 mile an hour and that it filled up with water like a balloon before turning itself inside out over my head. I managed to free one arm from the vest and get my head clear just in time to reach the surface and grab a breath of air. My shorts could wait, it actually felt kind nice. The board was lying upside down in the water a few meters away and with my vest in my teeth I swam over and grabbed it by the tail wrapping my arms around in front of the fin as the second wave washed over me. Thankfully 3 waves was all I had to take and I was able to pull my pants back on, climb on top of the board and sit, laughing (mostly with relief) for the second time in a day.

I paddled in after that.

On my way home I stopped briefly at ‘freeride’ in Henderson and reluctantly dropped the board off to Jabes who is pretty keen to get it in the water and give it a good go. I hope he has as much fun with it as I’ve had and I can’t wait to see his shots and hear his stories. I’d be quite keen to hook up with him if he gets a chance to take it out in solid stuff again while he’s got it (just remember Jabes, close the vent before entering the water and open it when you exit the water). The torch has been passed again.

Thanks Roy for being a good sport, thanks for lending me your creation and letting me take it out for a spin. I’ve had a great time with it, I’m stoked to have been a part of the journey. This board rides and turns differently from any other board I’ve owned so you have to surf differently when you’re on it- its kinda like grass roots surfing, just waveriding like they used to do in the early days and it won’t appeal to everybody but I think there’s a pretty good chance that you’re onto something with your design, I’m sure the others who get to share in this Hikoi will come away feeling like they’ve been part of something special as well.

What’s that word the Hawaiian’s use.... Aloha’

Tawharanui Marine Park

Tawharanui Beach
Today the Hikoi moves to the east coast just north of Auckland at the Tawharanui Marine Park. It’s another early start (Father Ted seems to be a morning person!) and I arrive at the car park wondering how I will recognise him. Then I remembered, just look for a car that looks like it has a hang glider on the roof racks! Sure enough there was a Jeep Cherokee dwarfed by this huge red board bag and Jeeps are not small vehicles either. Well Father Ted and his friend Aaron were already checking the waves which were small but fun. The place was fairly quiet with a few surfers already in Anchor Bay and a hand full of cars in the car park. It was actually quite a fine morning with blue skies and a few clouds peppered across the horizon.

Once the board bag was opened and the board slid out I really got to appreciate just how big this was. Nearly twice the size in fact of the largest board I have surfed. I have to say it is truly beautiful. Not something you often say about boards made the standard way. Every inch of this just showed how much love and craftsmanship was put into its creation. The fin alone, which would befit a small boat had been hand crafted in the same wood grain
as the rest of the board.


Already some of the surfers that were starting to arrive were asking questions and admiring both its stature and look. Most were surprised just how light it was for a board that size. It was about this point that a smile grew on my face as I realised “I am actually going to surf this!”
Father Ted started to wax the board, the way he waxed it was almost with reverence and love, I had my suspicions that he really likes this board. He was using some of Roy’s organic wax which he had also donated. It is actually rather good and stickier than the commercial waxes I use. I am a convert so I will be ordering this off Roy in future! I got the camera and housing out the car and got ready to set off to the beach. What would have been a normally quick walk to the beach turned into something more like being celebrities as various people we passed stopped us to ask more questions. We got to the waters edge and checked how the surf was. Lully and small, but quite clean. The odd shoulder high wave but mostly waist high. Perfect I thought as I didn’t really want to have to push myself too hard with a board like this as I had no idea if I could turn it or control a thing this size, also because my back was still as stiff as the board I was going to ride from an injury a couple of weeks before.

Its at this point I apologise to my physio for any damage I do after being told not to load my back for the next 3-6 weeks! Mind you he probably would understand as he was a surfer and took some interest in the hikoi when I told him earlier in the week.

One final Q&A session (We should make flyers with technical info to save time and to save Father Ted from trying to pronounce the name of the wood used in it’s construction!) from an elderly man who obviously saw the board and brought back memories of his youth and we set off to catch some waves.

I am sure there is an outboard motor fitted to that board as it paddles fast! It took a little longer for me to swim out to the line up with my camera in tow! After a few minutes the first set arrived so with camera ready Father Ted took of with ease, gliding down the line. It’s actually a bit nerve racking positioning myself for the shots and seeing the nose of the board poking over the lip because from the lower vantage point I had it looked even longer than on land. Still I had faith that it was under good control from its rider.

Some of the groms in the line up that had earlier been asking about the board, told us that they had been following the exploits on www.surf.co.nz, and seemed stoked to have met the Legendary Father Ted and Crystal Voyager (now re-branded AdamJ!) and were now part of a piece of New Zealand history.
Well it wasn’t long before it was my turn as Father Ted handed me the leash which I exchanged for my camera. After a quick crash course in operating it I started to paddle the board out a bit to get a feel for her. It really is quite easy to paddle but real hard to turn around for a wave as I found out when the first of the set waves arrived.
“Hmmm OK” I thought
“I am going to have to plan ahead with this board!”
So I gradually got her to face the beach and waited for the next wave. It is strange to see so much wood in front of your (oh er missus!) as it looks more like a pier or jetty in front of you! It reminded me of surfing Brighton Pier! Well the next wave was upon me and I paddled for it, got up and promptly fell straight off again. Father Ted made it look easy but it was then that anything I had previously learnt did not apply to this board. As Kat said, it feels alive. Even sitting astride it felt different to standard boards, warmer and altogether very organic in nature which is quite comforting.

So I paddled for a few more waves somewhat apprehensive, not only because I did not want to damage her but also anyone around as I was sure steering it would be a problem for me. Finally I got a wave and it just glided through the water with subtle flexing over the ripples. Quite a different feeling to my 7’6” that I normally use, also what was quite different was making a turn. It just didn’t for me, not through the board design but my lack of skill, so there I was on a 13 foot board which was feeling like it was running on rails straight to the beach, “bugger!”

Not one to give up, I paddled back out (this board must have a motor, I have never paddled so fast!) and slowly turned the board around for the next wave. The above cycle repeated itself a number of times with one where I tried a late take off (not a bright idea!) which saw me go over the falls with the board flying up in the air. A good few feet according to Father Ted (Oh why did you not get a photo of that). It must have been quite something to see 13 foot of wood go airborne (Sorry Roy).

“Just one more wave” I said a number of times then finally got myself a small right hander and made the turn and was running the face. Stoked, with a big grin I finally got it to turn. I am not quite sure how, almost as if it did it by itself in pure frustration at me straight handing the earlier waves! I can only describe this board like an analogy to cars. It reminded me of a Rolls Royce, quiet, smooth, big, understated power and just the feel of it alone exudes quality.

By this time the waves were getting peaky, the sky looking increasingly stormy and the bay was filling up with a few more surfers and my back was starting to give out a bit so I figured it was time to let Aaron have his turn. At least the kids in the shore break were now safe from me hurtling towards them on a wooden missile! I took a few more water shots and headed back to the car to get my other camera.
On my return there is Aaron whizzing along a nice little wave, just barely having time to turn the camera on and get a few frames.

There was no doubt he loved it from the expression on his face.
He quickly turned the board around and paddled out back cutting through the waves, the nose protruding through the back of the wave reminiscent of a whale.
He also did something that Roy said the board wasn’t designed to do and that was walking the nose. I guess it just goes to show that anything is possible. We did joke if the next big swell out west would be a good idea to try tow in surfing with it! You never know it might be more versatile than the designer had realised.



It wasn’t too long before Father Ted took the helm once more while Aaron showed his skills on his short board. Again he showed how at ease he is with the board taking on a few more waves. Before long it was gone midday and it was time for us to leave.

One last thing to do was to add our messages to the board bag before putting it back on the car. It was a great experience and I am now even more respectful of Roy and his creations and for his generosity at letting us try his board and in such a great way. I hope I get another chance to ride it and do a better job next time and get some more photos of will become a legend in surfing in New Zealand.

Until then enjoy the rest of the photos and the Hikoi blog as more stories unfold on its journey around the country.

Tawharanui Marine Park

Today the Hikoi moves to the east coast just north of Auckland at the Tawharanui Marine Park. It’s another early start (Father Ted seems to be a morning person!) and I arrive at the car park wondering how I will recognise him. Then I remembered, just look for a car that looks like it has a hang glider on the roof racks! Sure enough there was a Jeep Cherokee dwarfed by this huge red board bag and Jeeps are not small vehicles either. Well Father Ted and his friend Aaron were already checking the waves which were small but fun. The place was fairly quiet with a few surfers already in Anchor Bay and a hand full of cars in the car park. It was actually quite a fine morning with blue skies and a few clouds peppered across the horizon.

Once the board bag was opened and the board slid out I really got to appreciate just how big this was. Nearly twice the size in fact of the largest board I have surfed. I have to say it is truly beautiful. Not something you often say about boards made the standard way. Every inch of this just showed how much love and craftsmanship was put into its creation. The fin alone, which would befit a small boat had been hand crafted in the same wood grain
as the rest of the board.


Already some of the surfers that were starting to arrive were asking questions and admiring both its stature and look. Most were surprised just how light it was for a board that size. It was about this point that a smile grew on my face as I realised “I am actually going to surf this!”

Father Ted started to wax the board, the way he waxed it was almost with reverence and love, I had my suspicions that he really likes this board. He was using some of Roy’s organic wax which he had also donated. It is actually rather good and stickier than the commercial waxes I use. I am a convert so I will be ordering this off Roy in future! I got the camera and housing out the car and got ready to set off to the beach. What would have been a normally quick walk to the beach turned into something more like being celebrities as various people we passed stopped us to ask more questions. We got to the waters edge and checked how the surf was. Lully and small, but quite clean. The odd shoulder high wave but mostly waist high. Perfect I thought as I didn’t really want to have to push myself too hard with a board like this as I had no idea if I could turn it or control a thing this size, also because my back was still as stiff as the board I was going to ride from an injury a couple of weeks before.

Its at this point I apologise to my physio for any damage I do after being told not to load my back for the next 3-6 weeks! Mind you he probably would understand as he was a surfer and took some interest in the hikoi when I told him earlier in the week.

One final Q&A session (We should make flyers with technical info to save time and to save Father Ted from trying to pronounce the name of the wood used in it’s construction!) from an elderly man who obviously saw the board and brought back memories of his youth and we set off to catch some waves. I am sure there is an outboard motor fitted to that board as it paddles fast! It took a little longer for me to swim out to the line up with my camera in tow! After a few minutes the first set arrived so with camera ready Father Ted took of with ease, gliding down the line. It’s actually a bit nerve racking positioning myself for the shots and seeing the nose of the board poking over the lip because from the lower vantage point I had it looked even longer than on land. Still I had faith that it was under good control from its rider.

Some of the groms in the line up that had earlier been asking about the board, told us that they had been following the exploits on www.surf.co and seemed stoked to have met the Legendary Father Ted and Crystal Voyager (now re-branded AdamJ!) and were now part of a piece of New Zealand history.

Well it wasn’t long before it was my turn as Father Ted handed me the leash which I exchanged for my camera. After a quick crash course in operating it I started to paddle the board out a bit to get a feel for her. It really is quite easy to paddle but real hard to turn around for a wave as I found out when the first of the set waves arrived.
“Hmmm OK” I thought
“I am going to have to plan ahead with this board!”
So I gradually got her to face the beach and waited for the next wave. It is strange to see so much wood in front of your (oh er missus!) as it looks more like a pier or jetty in front of you! It reminded me of surfing Brighton Pier! Well the next wave was upon me and I paddled for it, got up and promptly fell straight off again. Father Ted made it look easy but it was then that anything I had previously learnt did not apply to this board. As Kat said, it feels alive. Even sitting astride it felt different to standard boards, warmer and altogether very organic in nature which is quite comforting.

So I paddled for a few more waves somewhat apprehensive, not only because I did not want to damage her but also anyone around as I was sure steering it would be a problem for me. Finally I got a wave and it just glided through the water with subtle flexing over the ripples. Quite a different feeling to my 7’6” that I normally use, also what was quite different was making a turn. It just didn’t for me, not through the board design but my lack of skill, so there I was on a 13 foot board which was feeling like it was running on rails straight to the beach, “bugger!”

Not one to give up, I paddled back out (this board must have a motor, I have never paddled so fast!) and slowly turned the board around for the next wave. The above cycle repeated itself a number of times with one where I tried a late take off (not a bright idea!) which saw me go over the falls with the board flying up in the air. A good few feet according to Father Ted (Oh why did you not get a photo of that). It must have been quite something to see 13 foot of wood go airborne (Sorry Roy).

“Just one more wave” I said a number of times then finally got myself a small right hander and made the turn and was running the face. Stoked, with a big grin I finally got it to turn. I am not quite sure how, almost as if it did it by itself in pure frustration at me straight handing the earlier waves! I can only describe this board like an analogy to cars. It reminded me of a Rolls Royce, quiet, smooth, big, understated power and just the feel of it alone exudes quality.

By this time the waves were getting peaky, the sky looking increasingly stormy and the bay was filling up with a few more surfers and my back was starting to give out a bit so I figured it was time to let Aaron have his turn. At least the kids in the shore break were now safe from me hurtling towards them on a wooden missile! I took a few more water shots and headed back to the car to get my other camera. On my return there is Aaron whizzing along a nice little wave, just barely having time to turn the camera on and get a few frames. There was no doubt he loved it from the expression on his face.

He quickly turned the board around and paddled out back cutting through the waves, the nose protruding through the back of the wave reminiscent of a whale. He also did something that Roy said the board wasn’t designed to do and that was walking the nose. I guess it just goes to show that anything is possible. We did joke if the next big swell out west would be a good idea to try tow in surfing with it! You never know it might be more versatile than the designer had realised.











It wasn’t too long before Father Ted took the helm once more while Aaron showed his skills on his short board. Again he showed how at ease he is with the board taking on a few more waves. Before long it was gone midday and it was time for us to leave.

One last thing to do was to add our messages to the board bag before putting it back on the car. It was a great experience and I am now even more respectful of Roy and his creations and for his generosity at letting us try his board and in such a great way. I hope I get another chance to ride it and do a better job next time and get some more photos of will become a legend in surfing in New Zealand.

Until then enjoy the rest of the photos and the Hikoi blog as more stories unfold on its journey around the country.

- Adam J

a beautiful work of art

BB comments today:
marko sharko III posted 05 December 2007 09:25 "Was a bit nasty - 2-4 foot and couldn't get past the shorey on it. Welcomed back the short board!!

But a beautiful work of art it is. I agree with Father Ted that it really needs somewhere with a good rip or a point break, rolling it was easy enough and it manages to paddle over white water pretty easily, but with continual waves I found I was just getting sweeped backwards. Somewhere with a break in the waves would make life a lot easier. I think the rocker in it means it doesn't plane as easily as a normal mal.

In the little reforms, got standing up briefly but didn't have much more luck than Kat...being used to a short board and trying to edge the rails - couldn't get my balance right. Only had about 20 mins attempting it - but it's all part of the fun.

For someone who is used to very big boards - it would be interesting to see what they think.
Can wait to see someone surf it at Pipe...you definitely wouldn't want to be on the receiving end of the tail or fin."

its a conversation starter

todays BB comments:
Father Ted posted 04 December 2007 22:02 "Today was fun, mate its a conversation starter, I've never had so many people talk to me about a surfboard before and its interesting how many either knew about the Hikoi already or are keen to follow it and already know quite a bit about hollow board building.

As for the surf, I got a few waves on it today and it was a bit punchier than Sunday. I was pretty cautious about the crowd and the best (by far) peak was well covered so I hung off the side a bit.
Nice to meet Marko and at least one other BB member who doesn't post much anymore but might be tempted to come back one day. Actually if he's listening and wants me too I'll happily let him know when the board next heads out.

No Photos From me today sorry, Mrs Ted gave it a good go but was also keeping an eye on 2 little future WCT surfers.
Oh and Roy' I discovered what happens when you tighten the vent on a hot board and then try to loosen it on a cold board. Mmmm... Might need to carry a spanner with me next time."

blunt' posted 04 December 2007 12:15 " dont think there should be a time limit. If the Hikoi takes 6 months or 12 months so be it. Its going to take time for the board to move through the country, dependant on when someone is travellin south etc.
Us South of Aks (and even further south - Beano) will just have to be patient I'm guessing.
Personally it would be nice to have it this way for the Autumn swells but whenever, whatever will do. Perhaps nzXsports could sponsor the cellphone After all, this will do no harm and lots of good to this sites profile etc. What do you reckon Marty "

Father Ted's words

Thanks Kat for bringing the board this way, it definitely has a WOW factor when you see it up close; the rails and the fin are especially detailed and the whole thing flows nicely from its tip through its dramatic rocker shape to the extreme pintail. Roy has a genuine talent for working with wood and he’s created something really beautiful with this board.

Surfing a 13’ Olo board for the first time was quite an experience, having picked Kat up and making our way to Muriwai the sense of vague nervousness began to increase. I really had no idea as to what I was in for but I was excited about the opportunity to try something new. The waves were just about the perfect size for a first time, S2S had called it 2-3’ with the occasional 4 footer and it was probably fairly accurate although the 4 footers were fairly infrequent. Having dealt with the obligatory photo session the moment of truth arrived and the real excitement began.

The lowdown from a layman’s perspective

The board paddles really easily and the ‘rather pronounced’ rocker gives you quite a lot of lift over smaller whitewash. Rolling it is quite easy on the bigger waves and the more forward you are the less likely it seemed to me that I would get whacked in the head by it. It’s really nice to sit so high in the water and you feel your making good time paddling, aside from the rolling and the typical Muriwai reform you’re out the back in no time at all. I discovered that nothing happens on the spur of the moment with a board like this- there’s no such thing as a quick spin around for a late takeoff, and even if you sit right on the tail it takes awhile to bring the front around. Forward planning seemed like a good idea and I was to discover that getting caught ½ way round can be fairly exciting.

The first wave put a smile on my face for sure, Paddling in fairly early on a head high peaky wave I felt like I was getting hung up in the lip for a moment (could have been because the waves were a bit lumpy) and then the board seemed to release and I was off, leaning to the left a little and the rail had me shooting towards the open face. Initially it felt like the board had a mind of its own but it didn’t take long to get dialled in a bit and my confidence increased to the point that I had no hesitation taking off on a few set waves. You can move around quite a bit on the board and that’s pretty helpful on the double up inside reforms that seem to frequent Muriwai on the outgoing tide; There was more than one “Oh SHOOT” moment when the wave wedged out underneath me and I was faced with a steep drop with the tip buried in what was quite possibly very shallow water but a quick shuffle to the tail seemed to be enough to bring the nose back up and we carried on with my heart beating wildly nonetheless- quite a rush. The last thing I wanted to do was snap the beast in the shorebreak and I didn’t want to get catapulted by it either.

I was stoked to get a couple of quite long waves from right out the back, the board links the tricky sections together easily and it doesn’t bounce around in whitewater sections either. I’d hesitate to say that I ‘threw down a few turns’ but I felt like I was busy all the time and it’s easy enough to bring the board back around to the curl again, The rails/rocker do all the work so it seems like the harder you lean the board over the faster it turns and I never felt bogged down at all.

I was stoked when I first held the board to realise it is quite light considering its size, because I have to admit I was pretty wary about the possibility of surfing it without a leg/calf-rope. There was no problem with that at all, although the surf wasn’t all that big bit it’s not much heavier than a ‘traditional’ or older mal. I reckon the only thing you’d need to worry about would be copping the sharp end of the pintail to the head if it came shooting back quickly- maybe that’s why Roy wears a helmet.

Kat, did really well, she’s quite petite and it’s a big board so I think the impression that I had initially felt about the board having a mind of its own was possibly more real for her, but she had no trouble getting up and sizzing along the wave and I’m sure that on a cleaner more lined up day she would have had no problems at all picking up a few big ones out the back.

All in all I had a blast on my first excursion and it’s awesome to have an opportunity to be a part of something like this, thanks again Roy for sharing your board with us and to Spud for making the suggestion. There are a whole lot of people who are going to have a whole lot of fun. I’m really keen to keep it a little while longer if people don’t mind to see if I can get out in something a bit more solid, I’ve got my fingers crossed for another swell like the one that came through last week. Here’s hoping J in the meantime I’ll get back to giving it a polish, I’ve attached a couple of photo’s of it, hopefully they show a bit of the detail in the board. It truly is a beauty.