Clean and 2

Surfscabs take
After a week of mushburger waves it was a pleasant surprise
to arrive at the local to see some nice lefts peeling off the bank
not to mention it was 10am and no sea breeze
woah sweet!

the waves were closing out a bit but a sharp eye
and a gentle warning to the grommette not to drop in
on a out of control test pilot, ensured i snatched
the odd peeler..

and apart from being sucked up over the falls a few times
(I'm no barrelmeister)
the board was making the drop and swinging under the curl nicely.

until i mistimed a turn and went over the falls
snagging the fin with my calf muscle
which now resembles a rugby ball.

Beanos take
(he hasn't written anything yet, but it was surfscab taking the pic on ym camera, and he couldn't work out how to unlock the lens barrel to zoom it out, so all his pics were taken at 100mm, apart from the first one, which was the last one)

Phoams take
I can't believe this, I am putting a pic of me actually surfing up on the internet.. .. thanks scab for handling the glass :0)
It was my intention to just go out on my longboard for a paddle to keep up my fitness, having done my cruciate (again) almost three weeks ago. A few waves on the 9'1 where I carefully popped up with a heavily strapped knee & got a few smaller waves in while beano was out back on the Olo, and scab was nursing his fin chopped calf on the beach with my camera.
Before we all went in I decided to try catch one wave on the Olo, so swopped with beano and paddled back out, catching my first wave ever on it and popping up just fine.

Very easy to paddle, but soo hard to turn in the water to get set for a wave! you have to really plan ahead. My wave died pretty quick in the reforms, but it was enough to get a feel.